August 24, 2026

Intro I’m writing this from a room in Atico that actually has running water, which feels like a luxury after the morning I had in Chala. The day started under a heavy, overcast sky at 14.4°C, with the kind of damp chill that makes you want to stay in your […]

Intro Chala is currently a town holding its breath, and I am holding mine along with it. The Panamericana south of here is a graveyard of movement, buried under a thick skin of mud that has turned the desert’s main artery into a stagnant mess of trucks and waiting drivers. Read more