Intro Day 344 on the road and my bike finally saw some action after the boat ride to Amantani. The morning was a slow-motion affair at Amadeus and Joanna’s homestay, dominated by a single pancake and a deep dive into Bolivian route planning. By the time I geared up at Read more
Intro Day 343 began with the heavy, nutty scent of black quinoa pancakes and a sky that couldn’t decide between a drizzle and a glare. Moving from Luquina to Amantani Island required a logistical dance of boats and pedals, starting under a 14.4°C dampness that followed me across the Capachica Read more
Intro Day 342 and my legs finally have a reprieve from the pedals, though the thin air at 3,800 meters ensures nothing is truly easy. I woke up in Luquina to a crisp 10.4°C and a sky so clear it looked like polished glass, preparing for a boat transit across Read more
Intro Day 341 feels strange without a chain to lube or a tire to check. I’m in Luquina on the Titicaca Peninsula, where the morning began at a crisp 10.9°C and the ‘road’ was a sheet of glass-clear water rather than the usual Andean gravel. After the high-altitude grind of Read more
Intro The morning in Chucuito was a slow, overcast crawl, with the thermometer holding at 14.5°C and a light wind tugging at the hotel curtains. After the long haul from Arequipa and the rest in Puno, my legs felt heavy, and the paved road ahead seemed both a relief and Read more
Intro The morning in Puno broke under a sky so clear it looked like blue enamel, with the temperature hovering just high enough to make the rooftop terrace at Inka Rest Hostel bearable. I spent the early hours staring at the paved streets below, knowing today wasn’t about mileage but Read more
Intro Day 339 began with a chill morning and a sky so clear it looked like blue enamel. After the ten-day push from Arequipa, my legs finally got a break from the pedals, though the paved streets of Puno and the 3,800-meter altitude still found ways to test my lungs. Read more
Intro The thermometer read a punishing 1.7°C when I dragged myself out of the sleeping bag at 4:30 a.m. inside the Pichacane Tambo. After nine days of grinding through high-altitude dust and freezing winds since leaving Arequipa, the air felt thin but the sky was a sharp, polished glass. Today Read more
Intro I’m writing this from a dorm bed in a government-run Tambo near Pichacani, trying to warm my hands after a day that felt like a slow-motion fight for oxygen. The morning in Julcan was crisp at 8.5°C under a sterile blue sky, with the gravel roads looking deceptively manageable Read more
Intro The morning in Ichuña started slow, with the thermometer hovering at 9.3°C under a sky that looked like polished glass. I spent the first hour in bed with Duolingo and my route maps, knowing the 27-kilometer stretch to Juncal would be short on distance but heavy on gravel. The Read more