Intro I rolled out of Hotel Don Felix at 08:40 this morning, my legs feeling the weight of the 315 days behind them but my head surprisingly clear. The 20°C air was still soft with coastal moisture as I took a final look at the waves crashing near the Virgen […]
Intro The sky over La Punta stayed a muted, partly cloudy grey for most of the morning, providing a reprieve from the direct desert sun. I spent the early hours on the patio of Hotel Don Felix, where the paved ground was already shimmering with a thin layer of fine […]
Intro I’m writing this from a desk in La Punta, my skin still buzzing from a day of abrasive coastal winds. The morning started in Ocoña under a gray, 16.9°C overcast sky, but the paved Panamericana quickly reminded me that the desert doesn’t care about my motivation levels. The Avocado […]
Intro I woke up in Chala today under a mostly sunny sky, but my focus wasn’t on the asphalt of the Panamericana. After the wind-battered stretches from Yauca, this was a day for the invisible labor that keeps this trip functional—fixing the blog, restocking the panniers, and hunting down local Read more
Intro I rolled out of Atico at 08:40 this morning under a heavy, overcast sky that kept the temperature at a steady 17°C. The Panamericana here is a grey ribbon pinned between the Pacific spray and the rising desert, and after the recent mudslides, I was relieved to see the […]
Intro I’m writing this from a room in Atico that actually has running water, which feels like a luxury after the morning I had in Chala. The day started under a heavy, overcast sky at 14.4°C, with the kind of damp chill that makes you want to stay in your […]
Intro Chala is currently a town holding its breath, and I am holding mine along with it. The Panamericana south of here is a graveyard of movement, buried under a thick skin of mud that has turned the desert’s main artery into a stagnant mess of trucks and waiting drivers. Read more
Intro I rolled out of Yauca this morning under a partly cloudy sky with the thermometer hovering at 16.8°C. The Panamericana was a smooth ribbon of asphalt, but the initial calm was a deceptive setup for the wind that waited just over the first ridge. The Garden and the Egg […]
Intro I’m writing this from a small room in Yauca, feeling like I’ve been through a rock tumbler. The day started in Puerto De Lomas with a deceptively clear sky and a temperature of 18.5°C, but the 45-kilometer ride that followed was a slow-motion fight against a relentless side-headwind. The […]
Intro I rolled out of Nazca this morning with a focused mindset and a bike that finally felt ready for the long stretch toward Arequipa. The sky was a clear, piercing blue at 16.6°C, but the orange wind warnings from SENAMHI were already humming in the back of my mind […]