Intro Today was supposed to be the day I finally felt the road beneath my tires again, but Lima had other plans. The morning started under a sky that looked like a bruised lung, damp and heavy, as I made my way back to Manuel’s workshop to reclaim my frame […]
Intro The morning in Chancay broke the streak of coastal gloom with a partly cloudy sky, though the air still held a lingering dampness. I started the day in my hotel room with a makeshift breakfast of olive tapenade and crackers, discovering too late that my only apple had turned Read more
Intro After a week of being pinned down by the coastal gloom, I finally broke away from the Casa Ciclista. The morning started with the familiar heavy slab of wet wool pressing down on Callao, but by the time I reached the desert north of the city, the gravel under […]