Intro
The sky over Punta Hermosa stayed trapped behind a partly cloudy veil today, keeping the Pacific a muted shade of pewter. My bike remains a decorative piece against the wall of the casa ciclista in Callao, so my movements were limited to the paved coastal roads and the rough concrete of the rooftop.
Rooftops and Routine
- The day began at 08:15 with the usual breakfast spread. I sat in the hostel kitchen, the smell of the briny Pacific mist drifting through the open window, mixing with the scent of fries eggs. I spent an hour debating whether to paddle out, but my muscles are screaming for a break. Carlos, the hostel owner, confirmed he’s heading north tomorrow with other guests, which made my decision easier. I tracked down a new instructor with sun-bleached dreadlocks for a Friday session instead. After settling my tab with Carlos—three surf classes and another night’s stay—I felt the need to move.
- By 11:30, I was on the hostel rooftop for day five of my six-day Shaolin monk routine. The rhythmic slap of my bare feet on the sun-warmed concrete was the only sound besides the distant roar of the break at Playa Norte. It’s a grueling hour of isometric holds and explosive movements that feels odd to perform while looking out at a surf town, but the discipline keeps my head level while the bike is out of commission. Afterward, I fell into a rabbit hole of German satire and old episodes of ‘Die Maus’ on my laptop, watching how car glass is manufactured until my brain felt as flat as the overcast sky.
The Meaning of a Strawberry
- Lunch was a functional affair of leftover oat pancakes smeared thick with peanut butter. The sticky residue of the peanut butter seemed to coat my teeth as I walked down to the shore to scout tomorrow’s conditions. I met the new instructor near the water; he pointed out exactly where we’d be heading into the swell. I stood there for twenty minutes, just watching the way the sets moved, the briny Pacific mist dampening my skin.
- On the way back, I stopped at Nora’s market on Avenida Garcia Rada. Nora is becoming a familiar face. She was busy sorting strawberries from a massive wooden crate into smaller plastic containers. As we chatted about her plans to save enough money to travel, she picked up the final two strawberries—small, deep red, and covered in a fine grit of soil. She dropped them into my bag with a wink and called it ‘yapa.’ I fumbled the pronunciation twice before she was satisfied. It’s a local tradition, a little something extra for the customer. As I walked away, a woman shouted from across the street; I’d left my water bottle on Nora’s counter, and she’d chased me down to return it. I told Nora I’d be back for a pineapple tomorrow. The level of casual honesty here is striking.
Code and Lentils
- By 16:16, I was back in front of the screen, but this time with a purpose. I’ve been wrestling with the Komoot API to get my ride statistics to render properly for the trip’s visual map. There was a nagging error in the date formatting and a stupid spelling mistake in the backend link for the GPX tracks. With the help of the AI coding agent, I finally cleared the blockers. Seeing that first statistic slide render—a clean, digital record of the kilometers I’ve already put in—felt like a win.
- The evening wind picked up, carrying that familiar briny Pacific mist deeper into the hostel. I retreated to the kitchen to prep a lentil and pasta stew using the pre-cut vegetables I’d grabbed from Nora’s. The sound of the knife hitting the wooden board and the slap of my bare feet on the tile floor as I moved between the stove and the sink felt like a domestic rhythm I haven’t had in weeks. I spent the final four hours of the night tweaking the map visuals—brightening the tiles and organizing the data tables—while the stew simmered. It wasn’t a day of distance, but the digital map is finally starting to look like a journey.
Overnight
I’m staying another night at Waves Surf Hostel in Punta Hermosa. It’s become a functional base camp where the staff knows my name and the kitchen feels like my own, which is necessary when the bike is sidelined.
Reflection
The ‘yapa’ isn’t just about the extra strawberries; it’s the local standard for how people interact when they aren’t trying to rush you through a transaction.