Intro

Day 194 found me still in the vibrant embrace of Baños de Agua Santa, ready for a different kind of challenge. After yesterday’s explorations, I felt a familiar hum of motivation, eager to stretch my legs and see more of the surrounding mountains. This day was planned as a loop, a departure from the usual point-to-point, promising a return to the comfort of my base.

Ride Overview

The day’s journey covered 13.93 kilometers with a significant elevation gain of 880.76 meters. The weather remained consistently cloudy, casting a soft, diffuse light over everything. While the initial leg involved my bicycle, much of the loop itself traversed a mostly steep hiking trail, a true test of calves and lungs.

Highlights

My morning began with a well-earned dip in the thermal baths of El Salado at 8:30 a.m. Getting there required an 80-meter climb with the bike, a small effort that made the warm waters feel even more inviting. Though not as scorching as the Antiguas de la Virgen pools, the alternating hot and cold plunge of the public baths was a perfect prelude to the day.

After a slight delay sorting my gear and foraging for picnic essentials, I finally hit the hiking trail around noon. My chosen loop aimed for La Mano de la Pachamama and La Casa del Arbol. The path was relentlessly steep in places, interspersed with moderate stretches, leading me first to a city-built viewpoint with a steel swing, then to the abandoned but accessible Mirador Bellavista. Many sections of the trail were overgrown, forcing me to duck and weave through the dense foliage.

At La Mano de la Pachamama, I discovered it was a paid attraction, so I simply enjoyed my picnic nearby, despite the views being unfortunately obscured by fog. La Casa del Arbol, however, was a different story; a small 1 USD entry fee granted access to all its attractions, including the famous swings and zip-lines. It was there, soaring on a giant swing, that I connected with a lively group of ten Chilean travelers, sharing stories and laughter on the zip-line. The simple pleasure of shared experience often outweighs the grandeur of a vista. I also found the prices for simple food and drinks surprisingly fair, enjoying a delicious corn on the cob with cheese for just $1.50 USD. The return journey was an extremely steep descent to the La Virgen viewpoint, where a long staircase led directly back into Baños, a popular spot for locals jogging their way up. Just above La Virgen, it felt as though I broke through the low-hanging clouds, revealing the entire village of Baños spread out below.

The day concluded with a lovely dinner alongside Julie and Niko, the two I’d met at Silencio waterfall yesterday. Our plan to visit My Veg restaurant was thwarted by its closure, but we found a cozy Venezuelan spot instead. Over delicious stuffed arepas, we picked up our lively discussion right where we left off, a perfect end to an active day.

Lowlights

One moment of unexpected tension came on the hiking trail when a male cow emerged from a property, intent on protecting his female. For a heart-stopping second, I thought he might charge, but thankfully, he held his ground, and I quickly gave them a wide berth.

Later, reaching what I anticipated to be the highest point of the hike, promising expansive views, a thick blanket of low-hanging clouds rolled in. They stubbornly clung to the peaks, completely obscuring the panorama I had worked so hard to achieve.

Overnight

I returned to a comfortable hostel in Baños, a familiar and welcoming base after a day of challenging ascents and descents. It felt good to be back in a place where I could unwind, knowing my gear was safe and a hot shower awaited.

Reflection

Today confirmed that adventure doesn’t always have to be about covering vast distances on the bike. Sometimes, the most profound experiences come from slowing down, embracing a different mode of travel, and truly engaging with the landscape on foot. The lack of a clear view from the summit was a minor disappointment, but it taught me that the quiet satisfaction of the effort, and the unexpected human connections made along the path, often shine brighter than any grand vista.

Route summary

• Date: 29.01.2026 10:41
• Distance: 13.93 km
• Elevation gain: 880,757 m
• Duration: 447 min