Intro

Day 193 opened with a peculiar sense of inertia, a flatness that often precedes a truly memorable day. I was still in Baños de Agua Santa, a town that hums with the energy of its thermal springs and the looming presence of Tungurahua volcano. Today was dedicated to exploring the very thing that gives this region its name: water, in its most dramatic forms.

Ride Overview

The “waterfall cycling tour” from Baños was a loop covering 45.07 kilometers, but the numbers don’t tell the full story. With an elevation gain of 1004 meters, it was a day of steady climbs and exhilarating descents. The weather was partly cloudy, offering a pleasant mix of sun and shade, and the surface was primarily paved, though many waterfall viewpoints required short, steep hikes on single paths. It’s a route where the bike is merely a means to an end, a transport between natural wonders.

Highlights

The day began not on the saddle, but submerged. The thermal bath Antiguas de la Virgen, with its ancient, somewhat rustic charm, offered a unique initiation. Stepping into water at 42 degrees Celsius was a shock to the system, a deliberate discomfort that soon transformed into a deep, penetrating warmth. Alternating between the hot and shockingly cold pools, I felt a ritualistic cleansing, a shedding of that morning’s flat mood, leaving me strangely invigorated and ready for the day’s adventure.

Of course, the star of the show was the Pailon del Diablo. It’s quoted often for a reason; its raw power is undeniable. The roar of the water was a physical presence, vibrating through the rock and into my bones. Taking the long route to reach it was absolutely worth it, leading me to a vantage point behind the waterfall itself. I stood there, half an arm’s length from the thundering cascade, completely drenched in its spray, feeling the sheer, untamed force of nature. It was an overwhelming, almost spiritual experience.

Beyond the Devil’s Cauldron, the route unveiled a succession of wonders: Machay, Manto de la Novia, Puerte del Cielo, Agoyan, Ulba, Silencio, and the 7 waterfalls of Chamana. Agoyan was particularly striking, as they opened the floodgates of the nearby hydropower plant, amplifying its already impressive volume into a deafening torrent. Later, at the graceful Silencio waterfall, which truly looked like a soft curtain of water, I encountered Julie and Niko, two German travelers midway through their own two-month journey. We shared lively stories and exchanged tips, finding common ground in the shared experience of the road. I even took a shower under Silencio’s innocent-looking cascade; the water drops, despite their gentle appearance, felt like a barrage of tiny hail on my skin.

Lowlights

While the day brimmed with discovery, the initial shock of the 42-degree water at the thermal bath was a momentary lowlight, a test of will before the reward. And despite the post-bath invigoration, the 1000 meters of climbing on the paved roads required a steady, grinding effort, especially after such a relaxed start. It was a reminder that even the most beautiful landscapes demand their tribute in sweat.

Overnight

I returned to my accommodation in Baños de Agua Santa, the same town I’d started from. This place felt like a comforting embrace after a day spent immersed in nature’s raw power. Baños is more than just a stopping point; it’s an anchor, a place where adventure and relaxation coexist, making it the perfect base for such a water-centric exploration.

Reflection

Today confirmed something I’ve learned repeatedly on this journey: the deepest connections often form in the most unexpected moments, whether it’s with the sheer force of a waterfall or the shared laughter of strangers. The day also underscored the profound impact a deliberate start can have. Beginning with a ritual, however simple, can shift an entire day’s trajectory. Sometimes, the best way to ignite the day is to first melt into it, and then dive headfirst into its raw power.

Route summary

• Date: 28.01.2026 08:29
• Distance: 45.07 km
• Elevation gain: 1004,269 m
• Duration: 659 min