Intro

Day 192 began with a bittersweet farewell, marking the end of a truly special stay. Leaving the warmth of Finca Castillo San Juan felt like pulling away from family, yet the road ahead beckoned with a familiar pull. Despite the emotional departure, I felt a quiet motivation, ready for whatever the Ecuadorian landscape had in store.

Ride Overview

Today’s ride covered 76.55 kilometers with an elevation gain of 695 meters under partly cloudy skies. The surface was predominantly paved, though a 15-kilometer stretch of dusty gravel after Riobamba added a rugged dimension. The route effectively split into three distinct parts: a quiet, paved detour, the bustling passage through Riobamba, and then the dramatic canyon ride towards Baños.

Highlights

The farewells from Juan and his parents on the Finca Castillo de Altura were profoundly touching. It took a good thirty minutes to finally part ways, filled with shared stories and helpful tips for my upcoming journey. Juan, in particular, offered a crucial 7 km paved detour to avoid the busy Panamericana. Their kindness and genuine welcome had made my stay truly memorable, and it was hard to leave such good people.

My stomach had been half-empty after a small breakfast at the Finca, but Juan’s suggested detour paid off in more ways than one. About 10 km into the ride, I stumbled upon a small restaurant. Their full breakfast was nothing short of a revelation: a tender chicken drumstick in a rich gravy with rice, a fresh bread roll, eggs cooked to order, and a comforting tea. The cook deserved a special mention for that chicken; the meat practically melted off the bone, and the gravy was simply out of this world.

The first part of the ride, before Riobamba, consisted of Juan’s detour. It was a stretch of finely paved road, almost defect-free, winding through a quiet, unspectacular landscape with a gentle descent. A perfect start to settle into the day.

After passing through Riobamba, the road, initially paved, soon transitioned to gravel. It followed along one side of a deep canyon, with steep walls rising dramatically on either side of the river far below. This alone created a truly majestic setting. I knew from my planning that today promised a lot of descent, and I was impressed by how the path consistently found its way around mountains that seemed to touch the sky. Kudos to the road planners for such an ingenious route.

Lowlights

The 15-kilometer gravel section after Riobamba proved to be quite dusty. Despite the low traffic, every single vehicle that passed by would kick up a significant cloud of dust. This was particularly challenging on the climbs, where fresh air felt scarce as I exerted myself, often riding through a hazy veil.

Another slight disappointment was not being able to see the volcano Tungurahua on the way after Riobamba. I had been looking forward to that view, but it remained hidden, perhaps shrouded by the persistent haze or simply out of sight from my specific vantage point.

Overnight

I settled into Hostal Princesa Maria in Baños de Agua Santa. After a day of varied terrain and the dust of the canyon, the simple comfort of a clean room and the promise of a hot shower felt like an absolute luxury. It was exactly what I needed to recharge before whatever adventures tomorrow might bring.

Reflection

Today confirmed the enduring value of local knowledge and the unexpected kindness of strangers. Juan’s advice not only made the beginning of my ride safer but also led me to one of the most delicious breakfasts I’ve had on this journey. It also reiterated how quickly the landscape can transform, from quiet agricultural lands to dramatic, towering canyons. Sometimes the best parts of a day are found in the detours and the details.

Route summary

• Date: 27.01.2026 10:11
• Distance: 76.55 km
• Elevation gain: 695,248 m
• Duration: 592 min