Intro The morning began with a 05:45 wake-up call that felt more like an eviction notice, the landlord’s knock echoing through the cold room as a blunt reminder that my time on the coast was up. By 08:17, I was finally rolling out into a clear, 8.7°C morning, the paved Read more
Intro I am writing this in a quiet room in Tilali, tucked away where the mobile signal doesn’t reach. The day began in Huancané at a biting 2.5°C under a sky so clear it felt fragile, transitioning from frozen pavement to the sandy fringes of Lake Titicaca. It was a Read more
Intro I rolled out of Tilali with the scent of peeled mandarinas still on my fingers and a sharp 8.2°C chill biting at my ears. The morning was clear and focused, a final farewell to the Peruvian side of the lake before the pavement ended and the real work began. Read more
Intro Day 345 began with the transition from the silence of the islands back to the rhythmic grind of the mainland. I rolled out into an overcast morning where the thermometer sat at a biting 7.7°C, feeling the weight of the Altiplano air as I prepared to trade boat decks Read more