Spokes and Shoes

Intro It’s nearly midnight in Palpa, and the bass from the plaza is still vibrating through the floorboards of my room. Today was a 67-kilometer push from La Venta Baja, starting under a grey, 17°C ceiling that quickly cracked open to reveal a scorching 26°C desert sun. The Panamericana was […]

Intro I woke up at Viñas Queirolo feeling like I’d accidentally swapped lives with someone else for a night. The morning was clear, starting at a mild 23.6°C, as I prepared to move from the padded comfort of a five-star vineyard back onto the dust-edged pavement of the Ica region. […]

Intro Day 304 started in Antillas with a clear sky and a mild 22.3°C, but the heat quickly climbed toward 30.6°C as I hit the pavement. The route was a 66-kilometer stretch of the Panamericana, a flat ribbon of grey cutting through the parched landscape of the Ica region. Saddle-Brain […]

Intro Day 303. The morning in Paracas started under a flat, overcast sky at 21.5°C, but the humidity didn’t hide the fact that I was about to enter one of the driest patches of dirt on the planet. I was aiming for a 9:30 start, fueled by a spinach omelette […]

Intro It’s 11:00 PM in Paracas, and my legs are finally still after a 79-kilometer push from Nuevo Cañete. The day began under a clear, pale sky that quickly traded its morning coolness for a biting 23.8°C sun, turning the Panamericana into a shimmering heat trap. The road surface was […]

Intro The day began in Asia under a heavy, overcast sky that kept the temperature at a muted 19.1°C. I spent the morning preparing for the 68-kilometer stretch to Nuevo Cañete, packing my bags with a lingering worry about a sudden stomach bug. The asphalt of the Panamericana waited just […]

Intro Day 300. I woke up in Punta Hermosa under a ceiling of clouds that looked like a damp wool blanket, the thermometer hovering at a steady 20°C. After 65.4 kilometers of navigating the fine line between the abrasive Panamericana and the spray of the Pacific, I’ve finally landed in […]

Intro The Lima sky woke up in its usual shade of bruised grey, a flat ceiling at 23°C that felt more like a heavy lid than an atmosphere. I spent the early morning at the casa ciclista, preparing to finally push south on paved roads after days of mechanical stasis Read more

Intro The Lima sky woke up in its usual shade of bruised grey, a flat ceiling at 22°C that felt more like a heavy lid than an atmosphere. After days of mechanical stasis in Callao, I was finally ready to push my gear onto the pavement and leave the Casa […]

Intro The morning in Callao started under a light drizzle, with the thermometer hovering at 22°C and the pavement slick with that familiar coastal dampness. It was my final day of mechanical stasis, a quiet morning of fueling up on oats and mandarins while answering WhatsApp messages about the Trans […]