Intro
Day 324 started in Yanque with a clear sky and a mild 19.1°C breeze, a deceptive warmth that didn’t hint at the grey sky waiting in Chivay. I had a short 8-kilometer ride planned, but I chose the eastern rim—a route that doubled the elevation gain and traded smooth pavement for a surface of loose gravel and steep switchbacks.
Peanuts and Polish Explorers
- I was out of my room by 07:10, pulled toward the main plaza by the sound of brass instruments. A group of kids in heavy, embroidered traditional clothes were dancing around the fountain, their feet kicking up the morning dust. I didn’t stay long; my stomach was the priority. I found a small eatery that didn’t even have a proper stove. Two women were serving food directly from large metal pots they had wheeled in on a push barrel. I heard the metallic clink-scrape of their ladles against the pot bottoms—a rhythmic, industrial sound that promised a hot meal. I ordered the Aji de gallina, expecting the usual yellow cream, but this version was different. It was a deep, brownish tan, smelling of heavy, roasted peanuts. The sauce was thick and earthy, sticking to the roof of my mouth and providing the kind of fuel you usually only get from a jar of Jif, but infinitely more complex.
- Before leaving Yanque, I wandered into the Uyo Uyo museum. It’s a tiny place run by an elderly man who seems to be the guardian of the canyon’s modern history. He walked me through his collection, pointing out black-and-white photos of the Polish explorers who mapped the depths of the Colca in the 1980s. He showed me a sun kitchen from Bolivia—a strange, reflective contraption meant to focus the intense Andean rays to boil water. The roasted peanut scent from breakfast was still lingering in my nose as I headed back to the hotel to spend a few hours coding. I sat there for two hours, working on the vlogging bot and eating local fruit. By noon, I had my bags packed and a plate of verduras revueltos in my belly, ready to tackle the climb.
The High Road to Chivay
- I had two choices for the ride to Chivay: the easy paved road or the long way around the eastern rim. I felt strong, so I crossed the river. I passed the pedestrian suspension bridge near Yanque that could have saved me 7 km, but the bicycle is a tank. Trying to lug a fully loaded touring bike up those narrow stone stairs would have ended in a disaster. I stuck to the road, which quickly turned into a series of punishing switchbacks. The chalky grit of the road surface began to coat my chain and my shins as the incline sharpened. Every time a truck passed, a fresh layer of that fine, white dust settled on my lips, giving the air a dry, mineral taste.
- By 14:11, I reached the top of the first major set of switchbacks. The effort was worth it for the perspective alone. Looking back across the canyon, I could see the Occolle amphitheater in its entirety. It’s a massive semi-circle of eight or so agricultural terrace levels, carved into the earth like a giant green stadium. From this height, the river looked like a silver thread, and the suspension bridge I had skipped was just a tiny toothpick. The road toward Coporaque was a rough, vibrating mess of pavement that rattled my teeth, but the view of the distant snow peaks kept me moving. There’s a specific kind of silence up there, broken only by the wind and the crunch of tires on stone.
Chivay and Medicinal Tea
- I rolled into Chivay at 16:20 just as the temperature dropped to 13.5°C. The Puente del Inca wasn’t the architectural marvel I expected, but the sight of the switchbacks I’ll have to climb in two days was enough to make my legs twitch in anticipation. I checked into the Hotel Turístico Q’apaqñan and immediately buried myself under three heavy wool blankets on the second floor. The damp cold of the Andes has a way of sinking into your marrow the moment you stop moving. I rested until 18:15, then headed out into the dark to find food, only to find my first two choices—a specific dinner spot and a dessert shop—both shuttered and dark.
- I ended up at a lively street corner where the air was thick with steam and the sound of the metallic clink-scrape of ladles returned. I stood among the locals, shivering slightly, and ate a cheese empanada that was mostly air and fried dough. To wash it down, I had a cup of maizena, a cup of creamed rice and a small glass of Callasca. The ladies serving it told me it was medicinal, specifically for a dry throat. It was hot, herbal, and slightly bitter, cutting right through the chalky grit that had been sitting in my throat since the afternoon climb. It wasn’t the restaurant dinner I planned, but standing there in the cold, drinking hot tea from a plastic cup, felt like the most honest way to end a day on the rim.
Overnight
I stayed at the Hotel Turístico Q’apaqñan in Chivay. The second-floor room was basic, but the blankets were thick enough to hold back the damp chill.
Reflection
Taking the longer, gravel-heavy route provided a better view of the terraces than the paved shortcut ever could.
Route summary
- Date: 2026-09-05
- Distance: 17.73 km
- Elevation gain: 446 m
- Elevation loss: 233 m
- Duration: 4 h 20 min
- Time in Motion: 2 h 25 min
- Average Speed: 7.3 km/h