Intro

Day 191 dawned, a significant marker in this long journey through Ecuador, and I woke with a quiet sense of contentment. Today was about traversing the high plateau, connecting small towns nestled at the feet of formidable volcanoes. The air held a crisp promise, even if the grand views were initially shy.

Ride Overview

The ride covered 36.9 kilometers with an elevation gain of 570 meters, mostly a gradual climb. The surface began and ended on paved roads, but the heart of the day was a challenging dirt track. Weather was partly cloudy, teasing with glimpses of the peaks. This connecting track, while arduous, bypassed busier routes, offering a more intimate passage through the landscape.

Highlights

My morning in Urbina started with a fascinating story about Baltazar Ushca, the last Hielero. For over half a century, twice a week, he would ascend Chimborazo to harvest glacier ice, wrapping it in hay for the descent. It’s a testament to a way of life slowly fading, a quiet dedication to a demanding craft that resonated deeply as I prepared for my own journey.

The dirt track, despite its difficulties, offered moments of sheer beauty. Riding without traffic was a balm, and the expansive views in the distance added a certain magic. Roughly halfway along this winding path, the clouds parted just enough to reveal a fleeting, majestic glimpse of Chimborazo’s snow-capped crown. A true reward for the effort.

Later, in San Juan, a serendipitous encounter unfolded. While buying groceries, I ran into Juan, the owner of my planned accommodation, Finca Castillo de Altura. He welcomed me warmly, expressing genuine pleasure at seeing a cyclist. He warned me of impending rain, and sure enough, as I cycled the last 1.5 km to the finca, large drops began to fall. By the time I reached the shelter of the finca’s roof, it was pouring. Juan, incredibly hospitable, offered me a room for the same price as camping. He shared the story of how his finca became known among cyclists, starting ten years ago with a couple who added it to iOverlander. His dedication, evident in the hot showers, enlarged community room, and new rooms in an old storage building, was truly impressive. His next project, a cafeteria for locals, speaks volumes about his vision.

Lowlights

My decision to stay in Urbina was partly for the chance to see Chimborazo from my hotel window at dawn. However, the morning brought only a blanket of thick cloud, denying any view. A small disappointment, though the later glimpse from the dirt track somewhat made up for it.

The direct route to San Juan felt too short, so I opted for a dirt track connecting to a parallel road, adding distance and climb. What I hadn’t fully anticipated was the difficulty. The track, an old Camino Real, was deeply rutted, with loose cobblestones where the earth had washed away. Pushing my loaded bicycle over each rock uphill was a slow, grinding effort. Other sections were thick with moss, making the bike feel as if it were sticking to the ground. Fallen trees occasionally blocked the path, forcing detours. It was a proper test of resolve, and I was immensely relieved when the path improved closer to the main road.

Overnight

I stayed at Finca Castillo de Altura in San Juan. It was more than just a place to sleep; it was a sanctuary from the sudden, heavy rain, and a testament to one man’s vision. Juan’s warmth and his story of building a welcoming haven for cyclists, evolving from a simple farm to a well-equipped stop, made it a truly memorable and comfortable night.

Reflection

Today confirmed that the most rewarding paths are often the most challenging. The struggle on the Camino Real was forgotten the moment I saw Chimborazo, however briefly, and was utterly eclipsed by the unexpected human connection with Juan. It’s a quiet reminder that the journey isn’t just about covering distance, but about the stories encountered and the kindness shared, especially when the weather turns. There’s a deep satisfaction in overcoming the physical and then being met with such genuine warmth.

Route summary

• Date: 24.01.2026 10:51
• Distance: 36.9 km
• Elevation gain: 570,216 m
• Duration: 363 min