Intro
I rolled out of Huaraz this morning with the kind of clean-chain motivation that only follows a scheduled pause. The pavement was hot and the air surprisingly dry as I swapped city traffic for the long, steady grades leading toward the glacier, feeling the chalky grit of road dust already beginning to settle on my teeth.
Chaufa and Catastrophes
- By noon, I hit Recuay. The heat was an odd contrast to the snow-capped ridges looming in the distance, making the shade of a small eatery feel like a sanctuary. I ordered a plate of chaufa de tres sabores that was large enough to feed a small family. The pungent, oily scent of fried ginger and soy rose from the rice in a heavy cloud, a smell that seemed to stick to my jersey as I packed half of the leftovers into a plastic container for dinner. I chased it with a scoop of arándano ice cream, the cold purple sugar providing the necessary fuel for the push to Catac.
- Catac provided the day’s most absurd mechanical failure. I stopped at a gas station to use the facilities, which featured a DIY flush system made of a thin nylon rope and an old plastic bottle cap. When I pulled it, there was a sharp, pathetic snap as the rope gave way, leaving the bottle cap rattling against the porcelain. I tried to explain the situation to the attendant, but she just stared past me toward the highway. I retreated, bought six heavy wheat rolls from a local vendor, and kept moving toward the park entrance.
Negotiating the Dirt
- I reached the turn-off for the National Park Pastoruri around 4:00 PM. The pavement ended abruptly, replaced by a washboard surface that sent vibrations straight through my wrists. The park ranger was firm at first, shaking his head and pointing at his watch; it was too late for visitors. I leaned on my handlebars and explained that the climb to the glacier was too much to tackle in a single go tomorrow. I just needed six or seven kilometers of a head start. After a few minutes of back-and-forth, he softened and sold me a three-day camping permit. I rolled past the gate just as the shadows began to stretch across the valley.
- The final six kilometers on gravel were grueling. Despite the grade being gentle, the thin air and the loose stones made every pedal stroke feel twice as heavy. The chalky grit of the road dust was thick now, coating my throat and making every breath taste like pulverized limestone. I kept my eyes on the white-toothed ridges ahead, watching the light shift from a harsh midday glare to a softer, amber hue.
The Incandescent Hour
- I found the spot I was looking for about 15 meters below the road, tucked right against the river. I wasn’t alone. A Canadian cyclist named Lui was already there, and he looked visibly startled when I appeared out of the dusk. Once he realized I wasn’t a ranger coming to kick him out, he relaxed, and we spent the next hour talking while I shoveled cold ginger-scented rice into my mouth. The river provided a constant, low-frequency hum that masked the sound of the occasional truck on the road above.
- Then the golden hour hit. It didn’t just turn the sky yellow; it looked as though the snow-capped peaks were physically combusting. The white glaciers turned a violent, incandescent red, as if the rock itself was heating up. We stopped talking and just stood there with our cameras, trying to capture the way the light bled into the ice. As soon as the sun dipped, the temperature plummeted. Lui retreated to his tent to read, and I followed suit shortly after. I tried to write these notes at 7:30 PM, but I fell into a heavy sleep for fifteen minutes before waking up to finish. I’ve agreed to a 5:45 AM start with Lui to beat the morning winds.
Overnight
I am wild camping at an iOverlander spot located 30 meters off the main track and 15 meters down a slope next to the river. It’s quiet, freezing, and shared with Lui, a fellow rider from Canada.
Reflection
Negotiating with park rangers is more effective when you have a clear plan for the kilometers you intend to cover before dark.
Route summary
- Date: 2026-05-07
- Distance: 49.11 km
- Elevation gain: 1005 m
- Elevation loss: 120 m
- Duration: 10 h 5 min
- Time in Motion: N/A
- Average Speed: N/A