Intro

Day 222 dawned with a familiar hum, a rhythm now deeply ingrained after so many weeks on the road. This stretch, from Santa Isabel down towards Casacay, felt like a continuation of yesterday’s descent, a gradual unspooling from the highlands. My mood was one of quiet presence, simply being in the moment, whatever it might bring.

Ride Overview

The day covered 67.94 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 655 meters and a significant loss of 1920 meters. The weather held mostly partly cloudy, offering a pleasant break from intense sun, and the entire route was paved. For much of the journey, the road carved its way through a deep canyon, often following a river far below, a silver ribbon glimpsed between the steep, verdant walls.

Highlights

The landscape was a constant companion, echoing yesterday’s dramatic beauty. Steep walls, a tapestry of deep green forest and stark grey-red rock, towered on either side. It was a corridor of natural grandeur, a silent witness to the river’s persistent rush far below, a spectacle that never quite lost its power to impress.

In the afternoon, the clouds thickened, drawing a soft grey curtain across the sky and shielding the sun completely. Just once, a brief, gentle rain began, lasting no more than five minutes. It was a welcome, cool caress, a refreshing interlude that I certainly wouldn’t complain about.

Reaching Hostel Rosita in the evening, I quickly settled into the simple room. Its bedframe, built of rough concrete and rock, felt perfectly in tune with the rugged surroundings. Soon after, I walked to the nearby Balneario, a local swimming spot, and washed myself in the cool river – a ritualistic cleansing after a day of dust and effort.

Later, after a dinner of rice with frutas del mar, back in the hostel writing my notes, the staff surprised me with a slice of freshly baked marble cake. It was a small, unexpected kindness that tasted all the sweeter for its spontaneity.

Lowlights

A difficult decision weighed on me throughout the morning. Yesterday, a cyclist heading the opposite way had warned me about a weather alert, El Niño bringing heavy rains to the north coast of Peru and the south coast of Ecuador. I’d briefly researched two options: push on towards the coast (Option A) or detour inland to Loja, staying in the mountains to give the weather a week to settle (Option B). I delayed the choice as long as possible, but by lunchtime, it was unavoidable: turn left back towards the mountains or continue straight towards the coast. I spoke with bomberos having lunch nearby; they confirmed what the hotel receptionist had said: rain usually starts around 6 pm. A lady selling pre-cut fruits offered her opinion too. Even Google’s Gemini and OpenAI’s ChatGPT couldn’t agree, one favoring B, the other A. Ultimately, I listened to my legs and my mood, and decided to descend towards the south coast of Ecuador. And the people were right: today rain settled in at 6:45 p.m.

Especially around midday, a strong headwind made its presence known. At times, it was so forceful that I had to pedal even on obvious downhill sections, pushing against an invisible wall. In other places, where the canyon walls were particularly sandy, gusts would whip fine sand directly into my face, a gritty, stinging reminder of the elements.

Overnight

I stayed at Hostel Rosita, a modest place that felt perfectly suited to the day’s end. The room, with its fan and rocky bedframe, offered simple, honest comfort for just 10 USD. It was a welcome contrast to the often-overpriced options, confirming that luxury isn’t always about amenities but about meeting basic needs with a touch of local character. The river wash was a profound way to shed the day’s journey, connecting me to the land in a way a shower never could.

Reflection

Today confirmed the importance of listening to one’s own intuition, even when faced with conflicting advice and external pressures. The decision about El Niño wasn’t logical or clear-cut, but a gut feeling guided by the immediate desires of my body and spirit. It wasn’t about finding the “right” answer, but about making a decision and owning it. The day also quietly reaffirmed the profound satisfaction found in simple things: a refreshing drizzle, a river, and the unexpected kindness of a slice of marble cake.

Route summary

• Date: 28.02.2026 10:08
• Distance: 67.94 km
• Elevation gain: 655,363 m
• Elevation loss: 1920,536 m
• Duration: 443 min
• Time in Motion: 298 min
• Average Speed: 13,685 km/h