Intro
It is late in Carhuaz, and my legs are twitching with that specific post-climb restlessness that only the Cordillera Blanca can provide. The day began with a slow start in Chacas under a deceptive blue sky, the paved road ahead promising a 1,500-meter vertical tax before I’d be allowed to see the other side of the range.
Fuel and Frozen Grains
- I didn’t actually clear Chacas until 7:40 AM. The morning ritual was derailed by a brioche and a gift of chocolate spread from the landlord’s daughter. I spent ten minutes meticulously applying a tacky, oily smear of chocolate to one half and peanut butter to the other, a high-calorie construction project that felt necessary for the 20 kilometers of climbing ahead. Along with a bowl of fruit oatmeal, it was the kind of fuel that sits heavy until the first steep switchback forces it to start working.
- The ascent through the canyon was a slow-motion reel of greens. The walls were tight, keeping the views focused on the immediate rush of the river and the thickening moss. The weather, however, couldn’t make up its mind. Three separate times, the sun vanished behind slate-colored clouds, replaced by a light drizzle that eventually turned into a sharp, rhythmic ping-ping of ice grains against my helmet and the bike’s down tube. It wasn’t a storm, just the mountains reminding me who owned the air at 4,000 meters. I kept my head down, listening to that metallic clicking of ice on aluminium, pedaling through the transition from lush canyon floor to the stark, snow-capped theater of the high peaks.
The Hidden Blue and the Dark Pipe
- Two switchbacks below the Punta Olimpica tunnel, I spotted a faint trail. I shoved my bike behind a cluster of thick bushes, locked it, and hiked ten minutes upward to Laguna Cancaraga. The water was a startling, opaque turquoise, perfectly still under a sun that had finally decided to stay. Looking back down, I could see the road I’d spent all morning conquering—a grey ribbon folded over itself like discarded string. It was the last moment of stillness I’d have for hours.
- I had planned to take the old pass above the tunnel to avoid the traffic, but a quick scout revealed the path had been decimated by rockslides. Huge slabs of granite blocked the way, turning a bike carry into a dangerous scramble. I retreated to the pavement and hit the Punta Olimpica tunnel at 5:30 PM. It’s a long, cold concrete pipe, and halfway through, the adrenaline spiked for the wrong reason: I realized my rear light was dead. I pedaled like a man possessed, the roar of the five vehicles that passed me echoing like jet engines in the confined space. Emerging into the evening air on the other side felt like a second birth.
Falling Through the Sunset
- What followed was 50 kilometers of gravity’s pure reward. The first hour was a descent through golden light, the asphalt smooth enough to let the bike hum. I leaned into the switchbacks, the wind stripping away the sweat of the climb. But as the sun dipped, the gold turned to an ink-black purple, and the temperature plummeted. The final hour was a different beast entirely. I was descending in total darkness now, my front light carving a narrow, bouncing tunnel through the night.
- As I hit the small villages on the outskirts of Carhuaz, the smooth road vanished. I had to brace my core as the numbing vibration of the potholes traveled through the handlebars and up my forearms. It was a jarring contrast to the flow of the upper mountain—avoiding shadows that might be craters or stray dogs. By the time I rolled into the town center at 7:45 PM, I was shivering and scanning the streets for any sign of a bed. I was standing on a corner, looking exhausted, when a man named Carlos stepped out of a doorway near Hostal La Merced. He asked if I needed a place to stay, and within ten minutes, I was being welcomed into his family’s home. I finished the night with a massive plate of ‘aeropuerto’—fried rice and noodles with enough vegetables to make up for the morning’s chocolate brioche—and now I’m listening to the quiet of a house that isn’t a hotel.
Overnight
I’m staying at a homestay in Carhuaz with Carlos, his wife, and their young son. It’s a warm, lived-in space right next to Hostal La Merced, and far more welcoming than a sterile hotel room after a long day in the cold.
Reflection
A 50km descent is a beautiful thing, but it loses its charm quickly when your rear light dies and the potholes start appearing in the dark.
Route summary
- Date: 2026-05-02
- Distance: 79.71 km
- Elevation gain: 1568 m
- Elevation loss: 2263 m
- Duration: 12 h 17 min
- Time in Motion: 6 h 7 min
- Average Speed: 13.0 km/h