The Dust and the Contrast: Riding into Piura
Intro
Day 230 marks a definitive turn away from the coast. After the long, slow pause in Cabo Blanco and yesterday’s arrival in Colán, the rhythm of the trip is shifting from the salt air of the Pacific toward the dry, inland heat of the desert. I started the morning in a calm state, though the late departure meant I would be fighting the sun for most of the afternoon.
Ride Overview
The journey covered 66.32 kilometers with a modest 283 meters of climbing, mostly concentrated in a single, stubborn ascent out of the Colán basin. The weather was relentlessly sunny, and while the final 40 kilometers were smooth pavement, the morning was defined by deep sand and a questionable shortcut through private property. The landscape transitioned from coastal cliffs to a shimmering, flat desert horizon.
Highlights
The view from the top of the ramp leaving Colán was a spectacular farewell to the ocean. The original road had been reclaimed by the earth, forcing me to push the bike through loose gravel and deep sand to find a connecting path. Reaching the summit, gasping and covered in dust, I looked back at the blue expanse of the water one last time before the terrain turned beige.
There was a strange satisfaction in the “shortcut” I took through a private estate. I had to negotiate with a hesitant security guard to let me through, and the resulting gravel road was rough and demanding. It felt more like an adventure than the highway, a brief moment of technical riding that broke the monotony of the desert approach.
The simplest pleasure of the day was a gas station stop where I bought ice-cold water to replace the lukewarm liquid in my bottles. I squeezed a fresh lemon into the ice water, and that sharp, cold citrus hit was enough to fuel the final push into the city. It is amazing how much a single piece of fruit can change your morale when the temperature climbs.
Lowlights
The morning start was a struggle of “trial and error” as I searched for a way out of the south end of Colán. Finding the ramp blocked and having to hike-a-bike through sand is a demoralizing way to spend your first hour of energy. Every step forward felt like half a step back as the tires sank into the soft ground.
The heat on the final 40 kilometers of paved road was a heavy, invisible weight. There is no shade in the desert, and the tarmac radiates the sun back at you until your brains feel slightly scrambled. By the time I reached the outskirts of Piura, the satisfaction of the distance was tempered by a deep, bone-dry exhaustion.
Overnight
I am staying in the southwest of Piura with Alexander and Estefanía, a couple who spent a year cycling across Peru with their young son. Their home is a humble structure with unfinished wooden walls and dirt floors, located in a neighborhood without a water network. Despite the lack of plumbing and the bucket showers, it is a house filled with high-end bicycles and a massive television, a testament to what they value most: movement and community.
Reflection
Meeting Estefanía and seeing her photos reminded me that the “poor” label we often apply to certain living conditions is a narrow lens. They live at the edge of the city with a Plumpsklo and a dirt floor, yet they possess a wealth of experience and a collection of gear that most would envy. Today confirmed that comfort is a choice, and sometimes the most generous hospitality comes from those who have stripped their lives down to the absolute essentials.
Route summary
- Date: 2026-03-16
- Distance: 66.32 km
- Elevation gain: 283 m
- Elevation loss: 246 m
- Duration: 8 h 36 min
- Time in Motion: 4 h 59 min
- Average Speed: 13.3 km/h