Intro

Day 223 dawned with a sense of quiet determination, a feeling that has become a constant companion on this long journey. Today was about reaching Reserva Ecologica Arenillas, a step closer to the Peruvian border, and I felt ready for whatever the day might bring. The air was already warm, promising another sun-drenched ride through the Ecuadorian lowlands.

Ride Overview

I covered 73.04 kilometers today, with a modest elevation gain of 282 meters, mostly on smooth, paved roads. The weather was predominantly sunny, though the heat built steadily throughout the day. The route took me through towns like Pasaje before I made a conscious detour to avoid a major highway, opting for quieter country lanes lined with banana plants.

Highlights

My day began with a simple breakfast of rice leftovers, which, after a good night's rest, felt like a feast. I rode through Pasaje, a bustling town, where my only stops were at the rhythm of the traffic lights, watching the morning unfold around me. It was a good, steady start to the day.

Lunch in El Retiro was a truly memorable experience. Cycling along the main road, I spotted a small restaurant with chairs spilling onto the pavement. A woman called out, asking how I was, and when I replied "good but hungry," she retorted with a warm, untranslatable phrase about them being good and having food. I stayed for nearly an hour and a half, sharing conversations with her and other patrons over a delicious soup with veggie dumplings and a main course of chicken in gravy. This is what travel is about, I thought, connecting with people over a shared meal.

Later, in Arenillas, the promise of ice cream was a welcome thought in the heat. A "Heladeria" sign drew me in, and while I initially hoped for homemade, I found the South American version of a common brand. Yet, a street sign revealed Toni milk ice cream on a stick, coated in Paccari Signature dark chocolate. The mint variant was absolutely amazing, a perfect, cool treat after miles in the sun.

I reached the campground in the Reserva Ecologica Arenillas just as the sun began its descent, around 6 p.m. Climbing the observation tower, I savored the last golden rays painting the sky orange over the forest. A couple camping nearby joined me, and we exchanged pleasantries. Later, over a simple dinner cooked on my stove, I chatted with the male half of the couple, who had driven north through Peru. He shared invaluable tips for my upcoming ride through Peru, which I anticipate starting tomorrow.

Lowlights

The stretch between Pasaje and Santa Rosa presented a formidable 6-lane main road, a landscape I try to avoid whenever possible. I decided to make a detour from Santa Rosa, taking a more tranquil, paved country road to Arenillas, even if it added a few kilometers. It was worth it to escape the roar of traffic.

Upon arrival at the reserve, the park ranger seemed less than thrilled to have guests on a Sunday evening. He was curt, unwilling to share the Wi-Fi password, and quickly gave me directions to the basic facilities before pointing me to an open pavilion to set up my tent, citing heavy rain expected overnight. It felt less like a welcome and more like an inconvenience.

The mosquitoes were a particular nuisance. My repellent seemed to work for about ten minutes, but then they appeared to adapt, buzzing around my head with renewed vigor, making it difficult to relax fully as dusk settled.

Overnight

I pitched my tent within the designated open pavilion at the Reserva Ecologica Arenillas campground. Despite the less-than-enthusiastic welcome from the ranger, the pavilion offered solid shelter from the predicted heavy rains, a practical comfort that outweighed the initial chill. It was a simple, functional space, offering a roof and a concrete floor, which felt like luxury after a long day.

Reflection

Today confirmed that the kindness of strangers often outweighs minor frustrations on the road. The warmth of the lady at the lunch spot and the helpful advice from the couple at the campsite were far more impactful than the indifferent park ranger or the persistent mosquitoes. It also brought a tangible sense of Peru drawing closer, the advice received tonight making the next chapter feel more real, less abstract.

Route summary

• Date: 01.03.2026 11:06
• Distance: 73.04 km
• Elevation gain: 282,534 m
• Elevation loss: 346,388 m
• Duration: 443 min
• Time in Motion: 285 min
• Average Speed: 15,354 km/h