Intro

Day 219 brought a deliberate shift in pace, a day away from the familiar rhythm of the bike. The morning started with a heavy blanket of sleep deprivation and a nagging worry, but the raw beauty of Parque Nacional Cajas pulled me forward. This was to be a day for the legs, a deep dive into the high-altitude paramo, a necessary off-saddle exploration.

Ride Overview

Today was a hike, covering 16.03 kilometres, with a notable elevation gain of 649 metres and a descent of 950 metres. The weather was a capricious companion, starting with brilliant sunshine, then shifting to persistent drizzle, and eventually a proper rain shower. The surface was almost entirely challenging hiking trail – often spongy and muddy at higher altitudes, becoming rocky on ascents, and frequently waterlogged on descents.

Highlights

The early morning rush was a blur of pre-packed bags and a dash for the tram. A brief, self-induced panic over an unvalidated tram card faded as the bus climbed out of Cuenca’s pervasive morning clouds. Then, a sudden reveal: Laguna Toreadora bathed in brilliant sunlight under a startlingly blue sky. Breakfast on a bench, dipping sourdough into guacamole and tuna, felt like a small, perfect victory.

Route 2 up Cerro San Luis was a true test. The path was a mix of spongy mud and sharp, treacherous rocks, demanding hands-on scrambling in places. Reaching the peak, even as clouds began to swirl and obscure the full 360-degree panorama, offered a profound sense of solitude. It was just me, the wind, and the vast, silent paramo.

The connection to Route 3 on the paved road was a brief, almost jarring return to civilization before plunging back into the wild – almost looking like those images I know from the Scottish Highlands. My much-questioned sandals proved their worth, splashing through flooded trails and muddy stretches with surprising ease, drying almost instantly. The rain came, a proper drenching, but wrapped in my layers, I felt oddly impervious, navigating tricky river crossings with a new, focused rhythm.

Then, a flash of white, a blur of motion across the river – a springbok, its tail a vibrant flag, leaping through the spiky paramo grass. It was gone before I could even think of a camera, a wild, fleeting gift. And finally, the unexpected kindness of a hitchhike back to Cuenca, a warm van after hours in the cold, wet wild, feeling profoundly grateful.

Lowlights

The very start of the day was fraught with minor anxieties. That 400-dollar tram fine, whether a real threat or an overblown fear, cast a shadow over an otherwise efficient departure. It was a silly worry to cling to, but it stuck.

Later, while walking around Laguna Toreadora, connecting to Ruta 2, I had a moment of clumsy surprise. My foot slipped on a wet stone, sending me sprawling onto my backside. No harm done, just a jolt and a muddy patch on my rain trousers – a sharp reminder to stay present, even on seemingly straightforward ground.

Overnight

I returned to Daniel’s Warmshowers flat in Cuenca, the familiar comfort a welcome embrace after the day’s exertions. His place has become a quiet haven, a place where I can spread out gear, cook a proper meal, and simply be without the constant negotiation of new surroundings. It truly felt like coming home for a brief, much-needed interlude.

Reflection

Today confirmed that sometimes the most profound journeys are made on foot, away from the bike, pushing different limits. The paramo, with its sudden shifts from brilliant sun to drenching rain, its challenging terrain, strips away any pretense. It demanded full attention, full presence. There’s a quiet strength found in navigating discomfort, in trusting your own two feet, especially when they’re clad in sandals in the middle of a national park. It’s a vivid reminder that resilience isn’t just about pedalling through headwinds, but about adapting, embracing the unexpected, and finding beauty in the wild, muddy heart of it all.

Route summary

• Date: 25.02.2026 08:29
• Distance: 16.03 km
• Elevation gain: 649,166 m
• Elevation loss: 950,831 m
• Duration: 490 min
• Time in Motion: 282 min
• Average Speed: 3,407 km/h