{"id":2064,"date":"2026-01-27T00:56:30","date_gmt":"2026-01-27T00:56:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/spokesandshoes.com\/wordpress\/?p=2064"},"modified":"2026-01-27T02:34:59","modified_gmt":"2026-01-27T02:34:59","slug":"191-from-urbina-to-san-juan-finca-castillo-de-altura","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/spokesandshoes.com\/wordpress\/2026\/01\/191-from-urbina-to-san-juan-finca-castillo-de-altura\/","title":{"rendered":"#191 From Urbina to San Juan, Finca Castillo de Altura"},"content":{"rendered":"
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#191 From Urbina to San Juan, Finca Castillo de Altura<\/h1>\n
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Intro<\/h3>\n

Day 191 dawned, a significant marker in this long journey through Ecuador, and I woke with a quiet sense of contentment. Today was about traversing the high plateau, connecting small towns nestled at the feet of formidable volcanoes. The air held a crisp promise, even if the grand views were initially shy.<\/p>\n

Ride Overview<\/h3>\n

The ride covered 36.9 kilometers with an elevation gain of 570 meters, mostly a gradual climb. The surface began and ended on paved roads, but the heart of the day was a challenging dirt track. Weather was partly cloudy, teasing with glimpses of the peaks. This connecting track, while arduous, bypassed busier routes, offering a more intimate passage through the landscape.<\/p>\n

Highlights<\/h3>\n

My morning in Urbina started with a fascinating story about Baltazar Ushca, the last Hielero<\/em>. For over half a century, twice a week, he would ascend Chimborazo to harvest glacier ice, wrapping it in hay for the descent. It’s a testament to a way of life slowly fading, a quiet dedication to a demanding craft that resonated deeply as I prepared for my own journey.<\/p>\n

The dirt track, despite its difficulties, offered moments of sheer beauty. Riding without traffic was a balm, and the expansive views in the distance added a certain magic. Roughly halfway along this winding path, the clouds parted just enough to reveal a fleeting, majestic glimpse of Chimborazo’s snow-capped crown. A true reward for the effort<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Later, in San Juan, a serendipitous encounter unfolded. While buying groceries, I ran into Juan, the owner of my planned accommodation, Finca Castillo de Altura. He welcomed me warmly, expressing genuine pleasure at seeing a cyclist. He warned me of impending rain, and sure enough, as I cycled the last 1.5 km to the finca, large drops began to fall. By the time I reached the shelter of the finca’s roof, it was pouring. Juan, incredibly hospitable, offered me a room for the same price as camping. He shared the story of how his finca became known among cyclists, starting ten years ago with a couple who added it to iOverlander. His dedication, evident in the hot showers, enlarged community room, and new rooms in an old storage building, was truly impressive. His next project, a cafeteria for locals, speaks volumes about his vision.<\/p>\n

Lowlights<\/h3>\n

My decision to stay in Urbina was partly for the chance to see Chimborazo from my hotel window at dawn. However, the morning brought only a blanket of thick cloud, denying any view. A small disappointment<\/em>, though the later glimpse from the dirt track somewhat made up for it.<\/p>\n

The direct route to San Juan felt too short, so I opted for a dirt track connecting to a parallel road, adding distance and climb. What I hadn’t fully anticipated was the difficulty. The track, an old Camino Real<\/em>, was deeply rutted, with loose cobblestones where the earth had washed away. Pushing my loaded bicycle over each rock uphill was a slow, grinding effort. Other sections were thick with moss, making the bike feel as if it were sticking to the ground. Fallen trees occasionally blocked the path, forcing detours. It was a proper test of resolve<\/em>, and I was immensely relieved when the path improved closer to the main road.<\/p>\n

Overnight<\/h3>\n

I stayed at Finca Castillo de Altura in San Juan. It was more than just a place to sleep; it was a sanctuary from the sudden, heavy rain, and a testament to one man’s vision. Juan’s warmth and his story of building a welcoming haven for cyclists, evolving from a simple farm to a well-equipped stop, made it a truly memorable and comfortable night.<\/p>\n

Reflection<\/h3>\n

Today confirmed that the most rewarding paths are often the most challenging. The struggle on the Camino Real<\/em> was forgotten the moment I saw Chimborazo, however briefly, and was utterly eclipsed by the unexpected human connection with Juan. It’s a quiet reminder that the journey isn’t just about covering distance, but about the stories encountered and the kindness shared, especially when the weather turns. There’s a deep satisfaction in overcoming the physical and then being met with such genuine warmth.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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Route summary<\/h2>\n