Intro

Day 226 dawned with a quiet resolve, a resilience that had become a familiar companion on this long journey. Leaving Bocapán felt like shedding another skin, another stretch of coast melting into memory. The air held a promise of warmth, a gentle nudge forward into the unknown.

Ride Overview

Today’s ride covered a modest 47.41 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 175 meters and a slight loss of 183 meters. The weather was partly cloudy, offering a welcome respite from direct sun for much of the 7 hours and 21 minutes it took, though actual time in motion was closer to 3 hours and 17 minutes, averaging 14.46 km/h. The surface was mainly paved, a smooth ribbon for the most part, until the final stretch to the fisherman’s house, which devolved into a terribly rough, but thankfully dry, dirt track.

Highlights

The morning began with a delightful compromise: a half-and-half breakfast in Punta Tres Grillos. For the first time in what felt like ages, a banana milkshake graced a menu, and I wasted no time ordering it, fortifying it with nuts and oats from my own stash. Eggs and bread from the restaurant, augmented with my peanut butter and extra bread, made for a truly satisfying start. It’s these small, tailored meals that feel like pure luxury.

Later, in Punta Mera, I stuck to the main road, finding a lovely roadside restaurant for lunch. Initially, they seemed puzzled by my request for vegetarian fare, but a simple explanation—rice with lentils and verde (fried green banana)—soon smoothed things over. It’s not that I’m strictly vegetarian, but I try to give meat a break a few days a week, and this meal was simple, honest, and exactly what I needed.

Taking a small detour through Punta Sal proved rewarding. The main road into the village still bore the scars of a recent storm, a deep muddy muddle blocking the way, but a dry earthy footpath alongside offered a clear passage. On the beach, I met Facundo from Argentina, traveling with his girlfriend and housesitting for a week. We shared a bakery item from my bags, and they offered tea. Sitting on their terrace, overlooking the beach, we exchanged stories of our travels, a brief, warm connection.

As sunset approached, I turned off the Panamericana Norte, navigating two kilometers of rough track to find Robert’s fisherman’s house right on the beach. Arriving to the sight of the sun dipping below the horizon was breathtaking. The initial discovery of no light, no water, and no gas for the stove was a momentary jolt, but Robert, though in Lima, quickly orchestrated solutions. His neighbor appeared with a 20-liter water canister for drinking and washing, and even offered his own stove for me to cook dinner. The mattresses in the guest room were a bit grimy, so I swept the floor, laid down my tent protector, and inflated my air mattress. Despite the quirks, the raw beauty of the location and the swift kindness of strangers made it feel priceless. The day ended with an utterly perfect, dark swim in the ocean, the water a sublime temperature, the air still warm enough to prevent any chill.

Lowlights

The morning started with a persistent annoyance: mosquitos in my room and on the balcony at the guesthouse. They buzzed and bit, making the first hour feel like a constant battle. It was a relief, then, to find hardly any mosquitos at Robert’s house by the beach later in the day.

Overnight

I stayed at a fisherman’s house, right on the beach, a truly elemental place. Despite the initial lack of basic amenities, the location itself was a balm, offering uninterrupted views of the ocean and the night sky. It was a reminder that sometimes the most memorable places are the ones that demand a little improvisation, made special by the kindness of those who help you navigate the unexpected.

Reflection

Today was a testament to the power of adaptability and the unexpected generosity of strangers. It confirmed that even when plans unravel, new and often richer experiences emerge from the necessity to improvise. The blend of self-reliance and community spirit, from the shared breakfast to the borrowed stove, quietly underscored that the journey is as much about people as it is about places.

Route summary

• Date: 05.03.2026 10:54
• Distance: 47.41 km
• Elevation gain: 175,64 m
• Elevation loss: 183,233 m
• Duration: 441 min
• Time in Motion: 197 min
• Average Speed: 14,457 km/h