Intro

Day 220, and it was time to leave the comforts of Cuenca, a city that had offered a much-needed pause in my journey. The past few days had been a blur of resupply and rest, but today marked a return to the road, albeit a short one. My mood was one of quiet curiosity, eager to see what this next small leg of the adventure held.

Ride Overview

Today’s ride covered a modest 34.88 kilometers, but don’t let the distance fool you; it packed a punch with 911.72 meters of elevation gain and 845.71 meters of loss. The weather was partly cloudy, offering a pleasant balance of sun and shade. The surface was almost entirely paved, save for the unexpectedly steep and rugged path leading up to the Amaru Zoo. The average speed of just over 10 km/h tells a story of significant climbs and a long stop.

Highlights

My day began with a generous gift. In Cuenca, a kind soul named Zoe from the South American Group offered me a can of gas for my camping stove. I expected a small 230g can, but she handed over a half-full 450g one. It was far more than I needed, so I offered it to Daniel, my Warmshowers host, along with half a loaf of bread, as a small token for his incredible hospitality. It was at the Mochileros Hostal, while picking up the gas, that I ran into Lukas again – a familiar face from the Cajas National Park just yesterday.

The main event of the day was a visit to the educative Amaru Zoo. It felt like an IKEA store for animals, with a single, winding hiking path guiding you through all the exhibits. The zoo proudly states that 80% of its residents are rescued animals, and they weave in powerful messages about environmental issues like plastic pollution. The path itself was wonderfully natural, sometimes steep and slippery even without rain, which made the experience feel more like a trek through a wilder space. I particularly loved seeing the Tulcans; they brought back a vivid memory of a childhood cup, adorned with their vibrant image. And for a truly unexpected moment, an Ostrich danced for me, a comical, gangly display that brought a genuine smile to my face. I spent a good four hours immersed there.

After the zoo, it was a quick descent back to Daniel’s flat to gather my belongings, which had patiently awaited my return. Saying farewell to Daniel was bittersweet; his warmth and generosity over the past three nights in his tiny home had been truly remarkable. From there, I rushed the 10 kilometers to Baños, mostly on flat roads, arriving just before 7 pm. Hostal Bohemia welcomed me for a mere $12, a perfect, no-fuss end to the travel day.

After the disappointment at the thermal bath, I decided to walk up to the church of Baños. From its vantage point, the night view was spectacular – the valley spread out below, with Cuenca’s distant lights twinkling in the east. Even after 8 pm, life was still vibrant; young adults played soccer on a nearby field, and people ambled across the square, a quiet hum of evening activity filling the air.

Lowlights

My only real lowlight was a small disappointment regarding the thermal baths. I had hoped to find a more affordable option than the $20 tourist prices, settling on Duran for $8. However, upon arrival at 7:30 p.m., I found one of the two hot pools already empty for cleaning, despite the bath being open for another two hours. The receptionist wouldn’t budge on the price, so I decided to forgo the dip for today and try my luck early tomorrow morning instead. It felt like a small battle against an unyielding system, a minor defeat I was happy to postpone.

Overnight

I stayed at Hostal Bohemia, a simple, welcoming place that offered a bed for $12. It was exactly what I needed: a clean, quiet spot to rest after a day of climbing and exploring, perfectly situated for an early start to find those elusive thermal waters tomorrow.

Reflection

Today confirmed something I’ve felt throughout this journey: the unexpected detours and the kindness of strangers often define the most memorable days. From Zoe’s generous gas can to Daniel’s open home, and even the simple joy of an Ostrich dancing, these moments are the true fabric of the road. It’s not just about the kilometers covered, but the human connections made and the small wonders discovered along the way.

Route summary

• Date: 26.02.2026 09:17
• Distance: 34.88 km
• Elevation gain: 911,721 m
• Elevation loss: 845,715 m
• Duration: 580 min
• Time in Motion: 201 min
• Average Speed: 10,399 km/h