Intro

After a generous fourteen-day pause in Santa Ana, a stretch that included ten days deep in the Amazonian jungle with David, it felt good to be back in the saddle. The bike, too, seemed eager for movement. My mood was one of quiet curiosity, wondering what new experiences this leg of the journey would bring.

Ride Overview

Today’s ride covered 47.86 kilometers with an elevation gain of 548 meters, mostly on paved roads, though the sections around the tarabitas offered some surprisingly good gravel. The weather was partly cloudy, a comfortable warmth hanging in the air. The most notable feature of the route was undoubtedly the two river crossings, less bridges and more aerial tramways, which made for a memorable day.

Highlights

Rolling out of Santa Ana, the initial kilometers felt like stretching a long-dormant muscle. The first tarabita appeared, a simple cable car spanning the Pastaza River. My bicycle was a tight fit; its rear wheel hung precariously outside the small cart, secured only by ropes. They handle motorcycles the same, the operator assured me with a shrug and a smile, and I had to trust him as we glided across the wide, swirling water below.

The second tarabita crossed the Sangay River, and this cart was thankfully large enough for the entire bicycle. This time, however, the southward journey relied on gravity, and I was tasked with handling the brake and, more dauntingly, the unloading myself. The wooden plank leading off the cart was narrow, and the cart had a slight side-to-side sway, making the dismount a delicate dance. On the north side of both rivers, a skilled operator managed the motor, clutch, and guided the rope on the coil with a stick, a quiet ballet of manual mechanics.

Passing through Palora, despite it being a Sunday, most shops were open. I took the opportunity to stock up, grabbing an almuerzo of rice with chicken gravy, just in case my destination in Huamboya proved sparse. I also found two delightful variants of bread: one stuffed with cheese, and another, which quickly became my favorite, filled with both cheese and onion. Simple pleasures, but deeply satisfying.

Reaching the Najembaime River Dam in Huamboya, I spotted a family having a BBQ and offered a cheerful “bon provecho.” Ten minutes later, just as I was about to unpack my own almuerzo, the family appeared with a plate piled high with grilled chicken, boiled yuca, tomato salad, and mote. It was perfect timing, a truly picture-perfect example of Ecuadorian hospitality. After the unexpected feast, I enjoyed a long, refreshing bath in the dam’s natural pool, which boasted a diving board, slides, and swings – a delightful discovery.

Lowlights

A day so rich in unexpected kindness and novel experiences offered little room for complaint. Perhaps the only minor “lowlight” was the initial mental adjustment required to get back into the rhythm of daily riding after such a long and comfortable break. Even that faded quickly as the road unfolded and the Amazonian air filled my lungs.

Overnight

I found a wonderful spot to camp near the Najembaime River Dam in Huamboya. This wasn’t just a dam; it was a community hub, a natural playground. Beyond the functional dam structure, there was a beautiful natural swimming pool, complete with a diving board and even a few slides. Swings hung by the water, and several BBQ areas hinted at lively weekends. It felt like a perfect blend of natural beauty and thoughtful community amenities, offering both shelter and unexpected comfort.

Reflection

Today confirmed something I’ve learned many times on this journey: the profound generosity of people, especially in places far from the usual tourist trails. It wasn’t just the physical act of moving forward, but the human connections along the way that truly define these days. My quiet takeaway is simply this: always be open to the unexpected. The best parts of the journey are often those you never planned.

Route summary

• Date: 15.02.2026 12:12
• Distance: 47.86 km
• Elevation gain: 548,046 m
• Elevation loss: 323,254 m
• Duration: 366 min
• Time in Motion: 232 min
• Average Speed: 12,37 km/h