Intro

Day 204 unfurled not on two wheels, but deep within the humid embrace of the Yawa Jee Reserve. This was day seven of a ten-day immersion, a complete departure from the rhythm of the road. My morning began with a knot of frustration, a feeling that slowly began to unravel as the day’s unexpected connections and primal experiences took hold.

Ride Overview

Today’s expedition covered a mere 2.83 kilometers, with a gentle undulation of 27 meters gain and 18 meters loss. The weather held a partly cloudy sky, casting a diffused light through the canopy. Our path was less a track and more a feeling, often requiring us to cut our way through the jungle’s overgrown tendrils, making for a slow, deliberate passage that stretched to over two hours of focused movement.

Highlights

My day took an unexpected turn with the introduction to Ariana in Puyo. David, my guide, and Carmen, his wife, facilitated this connection, weaving me deeper into the fabric of their family. Ariana, Carmen’s daughter, immediately made a wonderfully bright impression. She possesses an easy, natural talkativeness that invites conversation, her warmth palpable in every word. Her face is beautiful, framed by expressive hair, and her presence feels both confident and utterly relaxed. We’ve made plans to meet again, and I’m genuinely curious to explore her perspective and interests.

Later in the afternoon, David guided me through the intricate process of creating a bracelet. Using seeds, a small pig’s tooth, and a strong chambira palm string, I found a quiet satisfaction in the tactile craft. Getting my hands dirty, shaping natural materials, felt like a grounding counterpoint to the day’s earlier errands.

As darkness swallowed the jungle at 9 p.m., David and I set out. This was a hunting walk, a quest for prey, our tools a shotgun, a shovel, and a machete. For two and a half hours, we moved with agonizing slowness, pausing frequently to decipher the symphony of night sounds. We even switched off our headlamps, dissolving into the absolute darkness, a strategic move to become one with the environment. Though our only sightings were spiders and other insects, and my hope for snakes or an armadillo went unfulfilled, the experience was profoundly meditative. David’s innate ability to navigate these depths with such ease was, once again, remarkable.

Lowlights

The morning began early, around 7 a.m., with a bus ride to Puyo. David’s family needed supplies, and the bulk of our time was spent grocery shopping. I ended up covering most of the cost, a stark reminder that their income is modest, relying heavily on what they harvest from their garden. Beyond food, I purchased essential electrical items for David: a new multiple socket strip, as the old one was defunct, and a proper cable plug to replace bare wires that posed a significant risk. I also bought glue to mend my handlebar bag, its lid perforated by a falling, spiky palm trunk days ago.

We also visited another of David and Carmen’s houses in Shell, a neighboring town to Puyo. This one remains unfinished, lacking doors and windows, with only a temporary roof. They had received funding for a basic house as part of a program for the village’s poorest residents. Today, a committee was due to inspect the progress, so David and Carmen spent time cleaning the floor, which had begun to accumulate moss, and cutting the overgrown lawn, hoping to make a good impression. It felt heavy, seeing the reality of their struggle laid bare.

Overnight

I spent the night back at David’s home within the Yawa Jee Reserve. After the intensity of the night walk, the simple shelter, the familiar sounds of the family settling in, felt like a true haven. It’s not just a place to sleep; it’s the heart of this experience, a place where the lines between guide and friend blur, offering comfort and genuine connection after each day’s jungle adventure.

Reflection

Today confirmed the profound contrasts of life here: the relentless struggle for basic needs juxtaposed with moments of deep, almost spiritual connection to the land and to each other. The frustration of the morning errands slowly gave way to a quiet curiosity, fueled by new friendships and the ancient wisdom of the jungle night. I found a leaf today, curiously cut in a zig-zag pattern. Was it an insect’s artistry, or something else? The jungle holds its quiet secrets, reminding me that true richness often lies not in what you acquire, but in what you observe and share.

Route summary

• Date: 09.02.2026 21:09
• Distance: 2.83 km
• Elevation gain: 27,968 m
• Elevation loss: 18,893 m
• Duration: 139 min
• Average Speed: 0 km/h